I used to try to get a "glass" surface all the time, every coat then I realized that by adding thinner to the build coats i was a) having to spray too many coats, and B) adding to the cure time as that thinner has to come out and C) adding to the shrink back, again, as the thinner comes out. HOWEVER, if you are getting WAY to much orange peel, (ie the paint is drying to quick before flowing out because of humidity or temperature) then the retarder may help. I do not use retarder, the build coats level out fairly well without it with the 1.5mm tip. Bursts don't really cause a problem, but things like stripes or flames, you have to figure on wasting a coat of clear for every coat of color for it to level out. color coats should be as thin as possible, expecially when doing graphics or bursts as you will have to level these coats out later with the clear. your "build coats" should be as thick as you can spray and get a decent coat. I use classic instrument lacquer for trans colors as it makes no sense to thin out a product designed for build when i have a thinner product on hand. With Piano Lacquer, the build coats are the same, but i add just a bit more thinner tot he "flow coat", Piano lacquer is awesome stuff and has a bit more solids, so the flow coat needs thinned more. 5 OZ thinnner, just enough for a little better flowįinal "flow coat" about 85/15 lacquer thinner with just a bit higher pressure, 26-28 psi its just a "splash" in the top of the 9oz DeKupps unit. Trans coats, about 80/20 lacquer/ thinner, 28PSIĭevilbiss FLG3 1.5MM tip (this is a "production gun"" and i only use it for build coats and the final leveling coat)īuild coats. By GUN with classic instrument lacquer (behlens is exactly the same in spraying as far as ive noted)ĭevilbiss SRI, 1.2mm tip, (this is referred to as a "jamb gun" or a "touchup Gun" in the industry)
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